Anti-age is more than… It is a critical self-reflection, about your own life and its appreciation

JESAJA BRUCH®

Skincare

Skin care is a question of your beauty and your health!

Its purpose is to support our skin in its natural functions, to moisturise it and to strengthen its protective barrier. As a result, it is able to withstand harmful environmental stimuli such as UV radiation, high and low temperatures, air pollution, dry heated air, aggressive surfactants etc. more effectively.

Cleansing our skin is essential for careful skin care. This is the only way to keep it healthy in the long term. Wash your skin with lukewarm water and not hot water. Hot water can dry out the skin. Washing too often leads to a loss of the skin’s own moisturising factors. Unless otherwise prescribed, use a pH-neutral product for cleansing. This corresponds to the physiological pH value of our skin. If alkaline cleansers with a pH value significantly higher than this are used frequently, the pH value of your skin can quickly rise into an unfavourable range and thus cause a loss of the natural protective mechanism.

It is best to apply the appropriate skin care product immediately after cleansing. Massage it in circularly without leaving any residue. Skin care products can be adapted to the season. While lighter textures can be used in the summer months, products that are richer in lipids and more moisturising should be used in the winter months. Our skin tends to dry out in the cold season. It becomes more in need of care.

Do not over-care for your skin! Two applications, once in the morning and once in the evening, are usually sufficient. Don’t keep switching to new products! If you do decide to switch, try just this one. Bear in mind that switching products can cause skin irritation, especially at the beginning. Assess its effect after 28 days. This is the time in which the skin completely renews itself. This is known as the regeneration cycle.

Make sure you use it consistently in your skincare routine. Every skin type benefits from this, especially from good moisturisation. Some manufacturers publish the results of laboratory measurements on their websites.

Moisture equals water and water is an elixir of life – especially for the skin. In order to optimally support its functions, drink 1.5 – 2 litres of water per day (unless there is a medical reason not to), especially if you sweat a lot. Your body, mind and skin will thank you for it.

Solar radiation

is part of the electromagnetic radiation and reaches the earth’s surface in the form of electromagnetic waves with different wavelengths.

Its effect depends in particular on the energy of the radiation (the shorter the wavelength, the higher the energy) and the absorbing structure.

It can be categorised into three main groups:

1. ultraviolet radiation

2. visible radiation

3. infrared radiation

 

1. ultraviolet radiation

has a wavelength of 100-400 nanometres (nm = 10-9m).

Four per cent of solar radiation is UV radiation. 

A distinction is made between three types of UV rays:

UV-A (320-400 nm) radiation

hits 100 per cent of the earth’s surface in a cloudless sky. It penetrates deep into the dermis, where it primarily causes oxidative stress. This is caused by so-called free radicals. These are reactive oxygen compounds that damage (skin) tissue, collagen and elastin. The long-term consequences of UV-A exposure are characterised by dryness, pigment shift and wrinkling. This is known as photoaging. UV-A radiation increases the risk of black skin cancer, or melanoma. In the eye, it penetrates the lens and 1-2 per cent even reaches the retina. The risk of glaucoma is increased with prolonged exposure.

UV-B (280-320 nm) radiation

90 per cent of it is filtered by the ozone layer in the earth’s atmosphere and 10 per cent reaches the earth’s surface when there are no clouds. It penetrates the skin less deeply than UV-A radiation; it causes tanning and sunburn. With long-term exposure, it leads to reddish, firmly adhering roughness, actinic keratosis, the precursor of light-coloured skin tumours such as squamous cell carcinoma. In the eye, UV-B radiation penetrates to the lens of the eye.

UV-C (100-280 nm) radiation

is absorbed in the atmosphere by the ozone layer and does not reach the earth’s surface. Like UV-A and UV-B radiation, UV-C radiation can also be generated artificially. Artificial UV-C radiation is used to disinfect surfaces. It penetrates the cornea. In the eye, it reaches the cornea and conjunctiva.

The higher you are above sea level, the stronger the UV radiation. The atmosphere is thinner in the mountains. Therefore, the UV rays are also less filtered. The intensity of the radiation and therefore the risk of sunburn increases. If there is snow in the mountains, special care must be taken as it reflects up to 90 per cent of UV radiation. Water and sand also reflect the sunlight and thus increase the UV radiation. The closer you are to the equator, the higher the UV exposure. The shorter the distance travelled by UV rays through the atmosphere, the greater their intensity (at the North and South Poles they are around 1000 times weaker than at the equator).

If you expose yourself to the sun’s rays completely unprotected, you run a correspondingly high risk of sunburn, depending on your skin type, current UV index (measured values can be found online) and the duration of exposure.

Basically, the higher the UV index, the stronger and more harmful the radiation.

UV filters offer effective protection. Pay attention to its broadband effect against UV-A and UV-B radiation.

UV filters are divided into mineral and chemical filters.

Mineral UV filters such as titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO) are natural, well tolerated and hardly cause any allergies. They lie on the skin and consist of tiny particles that absorb and reflect the radiation. Their disadvantage is that they leave a whitish visible veil on your skin and induce free radicals.

Manufacturers have started to reduce the substances even further down to nanoparticles in order to eliminate this effect as far as possible. Under certain circumstances, nanoparticles could be absorbed into the body and deposited there. In this regard zinc oxide has a better security profile. 

Chemical filters penetrate the skin and convert the radiation into heat. They offer good resistance to water and perspiration. They also leave no white streaks. However, stains on clothing can occur. Some of them are suspected of having a hormonal effect. Some also damage the marine ecosystem and lead to coral bleaching in particular. As a result, Hawaii has banned oxybenzone and octinoxate by law. Palau, on the other hand, has banned oxybenzone, octocrylene, parabens and triclosan.

UV filters remain on and in the skin after moisturising. According to current knowledge, the estimated intake levels in humans are low, so that a health risk is unlikely.

Do not use harmful filters such as Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane / Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate / Homomenthyl Salicylate  Benzophenone-3, -4, -5 /  Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA oder Octyldimethyl PABA / Octocrylene / Isoamyl p- Methoxycinnamate / 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor / Octyl Methoxycinnamate oder Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate / Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Nano) kombiniert mit Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (Nano) / Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer.

We recommend using the following filters:

The information can be found on the packaging under Ingredients.

The sun protection factor

abbreviated to SPF (sun protection factor), indicates the time in which you are protected from sunburn in the sun, the longer than you would be without SPF. For example, if you can stay in the sun for 30 minutes without getting sunburnt and you apply a UV filter 20, you will be protected from sunburn for twenty times longer than you would be for 30 minutes. So it would be 600 minutes in total. Unfortunately, however, these are only indicative values. Repeated reapplication after a few hours is necessary to ensure adequate protection, as sun protection products are generally applied far too scarce.

The number of the filter indicates the protection against UV-B radiation. The UV-A filter is one third of this.

Sun cream is the last step in your skincare routine!

The best sun protection is achieved with covering clothing. The stronger the colour and the thicker the material, the better the protection. Synthetic and semi-synthetic fibres such as polyester or viscose provide better protection than light cotton, crepe or silk, for example. A loose fit is better than tight fit. Shade-providing headgear and sunglasses with UV protection are essential in the summer months!

2. visible radiation

shows a wavelength of 400-800 nm. It is visible but not perceptible.

Fifty-two per cent of solar radiation is visible radiation. This is visible light. It enables us to recognise shapes and colours.

3. infrared radiation

has a wavelength of 800-1400 nm. It is invisible but perceptible.

Forty-four per cent of solar radiation is infrared radiation. This is the perceptible heat.

Nutrition

supplies the human body and therefore also the skin with important nutrients. At best, it keeps it in good health and vitality. It helps to protect against deficiency symptoms, diseases and harmful natural metabolic products. These include so-called free radicals. These are highly reactive oxygen compounds that attack and damage the tissue/skin. This phenomenon is known as oxidative stress. Free radicals are caused by internal and / or external factors, such as lack of sleep, UV radiation, chronic inflammation, medication, stress, cigarette smoke and environmental toxins.

Oxidative stress due to free radicals

If free radicals are not effectively combated, they can multiply unchecked and cause the aforementioned tissue and skin damage. This can be seen on the skin in the form of premature ageing, wrinkling and loss of elasticity.

Antioxidants are effective radical scavengers. When it comes to skin care, the more antioxidants the better. These include coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), beta carotene, a precursor of vitamin A, vitamin C and vitamin E, in particular the so-called tocotrienols. Trace elements such as selenium, zinc, manganese and copper. Furthermore, secondary plant substances, especially flavonoids.

Fruit, especially blueberries, vegetables, especially peppers and broccoli, unrefined cereals, pulses, nuts and high-quality vegetable oils such as walnut or linseed oil are particularly rich in antioxidants. Omega-3 fatty acids, such as those found in oily fish like salmon, mackerel, herring, sardines and anchovies, strengthen our skin from the inside.

Eat a healthy, fresh and balanced diet! Avoid highly processed food products. You will no doubt have heard of the so-called food pyramid. Organically grown foods generally contain higher concentrations of antioxidants than those that have been cultivated with pesticides.

portrait of handsome man sleeping on side with bare torso in bedroom

Sleep

When we sleep at night, our skin renews itself, repairs damage and replenishes water reserves. Become beautiful and stay healthy when sleeping is therefore more than just a saying. Poor sleep is unhealthy in the long term. Restful sleep lasts around seven to eight hours. To ensure that you easily fall and stay asleep, exercise regularly during the day, preferably in the morning light. Favour light meals in the evening. Get some rest. Avoid large amounts of alcohol and other drugs, especially in the evening. Maintain a small ritual such as drinking a non-stimulating tea blend, lemon balm, valerian, lavender, lime blossom, St John’s wort and hops are particularly suitable.

Dim the light and, if necessary, swap cold light for warm light. Create a pleasant atmosphere. Go to bed and always get up at the same time. The bed is intended exclusively for sleeping and sexual activity. Only lie down for up to 30 minutes during the day if you have to. The time you sleep during the day will be missed at night. If you cannot fall asleep, get up for 10-15 minutes and drink a glass of warm milk with a spoonful of honey. Eliminate triggers for inner restlessness and brooding. Switch off external disruptive factors.

Smoke

has a complex effect on human skin due to various mechanisms. Not only the skin cells themselves, but also immune cells and neuronal cells are targeted by the numerous ingredients of tobacco smoke. In addition to accelerating ageing processes, the clinical focus is on influencing inflammatory processes (psoriasis, acne inversa) and,  above all, the carcinogenic, that means cancer-causing effect of tobacco smoke.

The most frequent and most visible consequence of smoking is premature and increased skin ageing. A “smoker’s face” is characterised by significant wrinkling, protrusion of the bony structures and a greyish, sometimes blotchy discolouration with an increase in so-called actinic elastosis. This is characterised by a loss of elastic and collagen fibres in the dermis as well as impaired blood circulation caused by smoking. This visibly worsens the skin structure.

The extent of the structural changes correlates with the number of cigarettes and the number of years smoked (so-called pack-years). The risk in this respect appears to be greater in women. A twin study showed that the lower two thirds of the face in particular are more severely affected than the upper third in smokers with more than five pack-years. There was an increase in static, but not dynamic wrinkles, an increase in blepharochalasis, “bags under the eyes”, the nasolabial fold and the perioral pleats, that means around the mouth (taken from ärztliches-journal.de).

Environment

Pets should be regularly examined for skin diseases such as mycosis and bacterial infections. These can be transmitted to humans and manifest themselves in the form of blotchy and scaly patches.

Our skin is more or less always exposed to pollutants in the form of small suspended particles in the air and environment. The most common irritants include volatile organic compounds (VOCs), polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), oxides, ozone (O3) and particulate matter (PM2.5 and PM10). They promote oxidative stress through the formation of free radicals. Lipids of the skin barrier and connective tissue are thus attacked and moisture is lost. Foreign bodies can penetrate more easily. An impaired skin barrier can lead to increased sensitivity, an unpleasant skin sensation and accelerated skin ageing.

Wellness

Treat your skin, your body and your soul to a soothing break from time to time. Dysstress, that means stress that causes illness, not only manifests itself physically and emotionally, but also leaves its mark on our skin.

It is no coincidence that the skin is called the mirror of our soul.

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